La sartén por el mango

jueves, agosto 30, 2007

Abasto, mi nuevo favorito

Hace mucho tiempo, se los aseguro, no conocía un restaurante tan especial como Abasto y, paradójicamente, la culpa la tuvo un lugar vecino, Amarti Café. Ocurrió que al llegar a Amarti una de estas frías noches, me encontré con que, como ya es costumbre, no guardaron mi reserva. Ante la displicencia del pésimo servicio de este lugar (los meseros parecen entrenados por la Gestapo), di media vuelta y me marché con el hambre al hombro. En ese justo instante se me vino a la cabeza Abasto, un nuevo restaurante en Usaquén, a cuadra y media del parque.

Es así como, gracias a Amarti y sus continuos desplantes, encontré mi nuevo favorito en esta zona de Bogotá. El local es amplio y las mesas están suficientemente separadas unas de otras, lo cual es de aplaudir. Incluso, cinco o seis de ellas se ubican en sitios íntimos y reservados, como la de la chimenea, la de la trastienda o la de la terraza. El tema, como su nombre lo indica, son las plazas de mercado, y es realmente consecuente con esta idea: los uniformes de los meseros (amabilísimos, por cierto), son como el de lo vendedores de Corabastos, en la trastienda hay una alacena a la vista y un mercadito de productos frescos como quesos y postres, y los individuales están elaborados con el papel en el que llevan las cuentas los vendedores de la plaza. La música es lo único que no concuerda: a cambio de tanto lounge no quedarían mal bambucos, pasillos y una que otra de Jorge Velosa.

Las cartas son breves pero bien pensadas. Entre los vinos elegí un mendocino Clos de los Siete Corte 2005, rotundo y poderoso, que acompañó con elegancia lo que vendría luego. Primero, unas aceitunas griegas marinadas ($5.500), verdes y negras, regordetas todas. Luego, las empanaditas de maíz con pollo al mole ($7.500), cuatro de ellas, tostaditas y de buen sabor. En seguida unas croquetas de queso con hierbas y prosciuto. De éste último muy poco, generosas en queso, de interior cremoso y acompañadas con una salsa a la que le faltó actitud.

Probé también los pulpitos a la parrilla ($16.400) con sal gruesa sobre ratatuille y con aceite de chile chipotle. Maravillosos, de un sabor increíble y con el crunch inesperado de los granos de sal. En cuanto al ratatuille que los acompaña, es perfecto para comer con el pan de la casa que, por cierto, no podría estar mejor. Para terminar, llegó a mi mesa un ceviche mexicano de camarón ($16.500) cuya abundancia me dejó perplejo. Muy ácido para mi gusto, pero en su perfecto punto. Y de postre, una lujuriosa torta de chocolate Santander con almendras ($6.400), bañada en salsa y con helado de vainilla de primera calidad.

Para resumir, encuentro admirable la idea de Abasto en cuanto al ambiente que propone, alejado de pretensiones y espejismos, y también en lo que respecta a su cocina fresca, del día, orgullosa y sin falsas vanidades. Es un lugar cómodo, amable, cálido, y al mismo tiempo es alegre, emocionante, exuberante, como suelen ser las plazas de mercado. Ante este emocionante descubrimiento, entonces, no puedo hacer otra cosa que agradecer a Amarte por su último desplante, ¡y bienvenido Abasto!

Abasto
Dirección: Carrera 6 Nº 119B-52, Bogotá.
Teléfono: 215 1286.

teodoromadureira@hotmail.com


1 + + Comida
2 + + + Creatividad
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Total 15 de 18
Precio $

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